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Flow enamel

antique cup with raised paste

Flow enamel

Postby marcib » Fri Jan 27, 2017 6:35 pm

We had a recent discussion on thelist about flow enamel .
Flow enamel is an enamel technique where, rather than doing traditional scrolls and dots and raised accents with enamel , the enamel is instead thinned a little more and painted or flowed onto the piece resulting in a painted looking but raised area. .
Often , gold or paint is applied first as an outline ... then the enamel is thinned and flowed inside the outline . .
Here are some examples of flow enamel:

flow enamel.jpg

flow enamel2.JPG

Nippon vase

Gloria Bordeaux Knapp
gloria knapp.JPG

The photos of the piece below were sent to me by Louise Gardiner who also shares her technique with us.. Thank you , Louise.

louise gardiner.jpg

louise gardiner 2.jpg

Louise says:
" I studied flow enamel with Rosa Maria Plancarte and Ruth Cooper , plus a woman (whose name is in a drawer in mystudio) that was at the IPAT show in KY. years ago .She had the most beautiful bisque, cut-out eggs .

She had jars of dry colored paints that we added water to to
a very thin consistency,. She had us trace the design on the eggs, and then trace
the outlines that were on the egg with liquid bright gold . Then we took a liner
brush and filled it with a color and literally "flowed" the color from the brush to
the bisque.

Laying the full load of the thin paint against the bisque or the china
the paint goes right from the brush to the porcelain.The lady's name is Shirley Thompson - California. The paint is powdered andyou use water till it is like milk and then "puddle it" in the area that is enclosed with the LBG, just like the flow enamel. Much easier to do that enamel. ( note from marci : this is a product called " mud"
http://uniqueglasscolors.com/ugcmud.php )

Candy Lynch added: "

I have not tried this yet, but I bought the enamel and medium at the Tennessee State
Convention last May. I have a booklet with instructions. Basically the reason I
haven't done it is that you mix it to a state where the enamel curls in front of the
spatula. It looked easy when the lady did her demo, mine doesn't do that.
Then you rehydrate it to the point that it "flows" off the brush when the brush is held
directly over the space to be painted (outlined and fired or decal), then the paint
is slowly pulled over the space to fill in the area. Like I said, it looked easy.

I painted my design. You want small spaces, like small petals or small spaces on
butterfly wings. I made one color that wouldn't curl in front of my spatula. Fire
at 017 or 018.

Marci ( me ) then added: " Hi Candy
It might take a little more grinding with the palette knife before it will
do that.. also , mixed a little drier and stiffer at that point .. like a
soft putty ..... stiffer than china paint is normally mixed ... ( then ,
once it curls over your palette knife, you thin it to flow consistency )

marci "

From marci: Its been a long time since I ve played with enamel .. but as I recall from watching Maria Plancarte, you mix the enamel powder with a thick medium like fat oil ( or enamel medium ) as dry as possible ... sort of like making a pie crust where you want the powder to hold together but just barely ... not too much liquid ....

When you get to the point where it is starting to hold together, you can knead it with your fingers like putty .. ( or pull your palette knife over it to that it curls over the palette knife ) ...

Store in an airtight small jar ...

Take out just a small amount .. thin with turp ... Add china paint to tint . ( remember that it will fire at least twice as dark as it looks on your palette ) ... thin to the point where you can flow it off the brush .

Fire 018 or 017 ...
Marci >^..^< (x 8 )
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Re: Flow enamel

Postby marcib » Sun Jan 29, 2017 7:13 pm

Im adding more information that I had from Judith Wachter that I finally found !
She says:
I know a little bit about flow enamel from a class I had with Rosa
Plancarte at the MPAS school in Excelsior Springs, MO two weeks ago.

After designing our pieces, we applied a raised paste and fired it. Second
fire, the raised paste was covered with Roman Gold, and burnished after it
was out of the kiln and cool. Third fire occurred after applying enamel to
the small areas of our design which we wanted to decorate. We mixed the
enamel up as usual and then added rectified turpentine to it until it was a
bit liquid. That was painted inside the raised paste/gold areas and fired
for the last time.

The picture of my piece is attached and it is ready for the flow enamel to
be applied. You can use any color combination that you'd like to.
Marci >^..^< (x 8 )
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Re: Flow enamel

Postby marcib » Mon Jan 30, 2017 7:23 pm

Im adding a photo sent to me by Judy Jaussaud . This is flow enamel on a cut out bisque egg... Really gorgeous ! Judy does everything well.. but does some of the best enameling and scrolling work Ive ever seen ...

Judy says she wishes you could see the thickness of the enamel better on this.

judy jaussaud.jpg
Marci >^..^< (x 8 )
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Re: Flow enamel

Postby annaherring » Mon Jan 30, 2017 8:24 pm

I've always wondered what to do with those bisque eggs! Now I know! :) ;bravo;
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Re: Flow enamel

Postby judyj » Mon Jan 30, 2017 10:44 pm

This bisque egg is approximately 6" in length. That should give the viewer an idea of the size of the enamel flowers. Over the years I've found my "own" method for applying the enamel. I sketch my design on with a very fine tip permanent felt marker. (I like the Micron brand). Then I mix my enamel colors and apply one area at a time, being careful not to let wet areas touch each other. In other words, I don't apply a second color next to another color until the first color appears dry. When all areas are colored in, and appear to be dry, I fire to .018. (Not hotter!!!) One of those old wives tales says not to fire more than once. But those of you who know me know that I don't pay any attention to those old tales. After firing, I THEN mix my black paint to do the penwork outline of all the areas, in addition to adding all of the veins, etc., in the flowers and leaves. Fire again at .018. I generally use my Black Satin paint for the penwork. I no longer sell it, but Mary Gosden does. Sometimes I outline the enamel with other dark colors or gold. I just try to use what I feel will be the best contrast.
Judy Jaussaud in the Eastern Washington countryside - in between Naches, Gleed, Selah and Yakima. judyjaussaud@charter.net
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Re: Flow enamel

Postby espga » Fri Feb 03, 2017 10:41 pm

;thanks; This is a great example and lesson on Flow enamel.
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